Today we met to board our bus shortly before 8:30AM. We went to the Royal Botanic Gardens and met a guide named Jakobi who took us on an Aboriginal Heritage Walk and had us participate in a Welcome to Country smoking ceremony, which involved burning leaves and herbs. Jakobi explained the First Peoples’ use of several trees, flowers, seed pods, and plants. Then our guide took us off to the side and discussed the history of persecution of the Aboriginal peoples by the British, and the legal status problems and prejudice that are present now. This will be a theme of the tour.
When Captain Cook grounded his ship on the Great Barrier Reef, the Aboriginal people living in the area helped him fix the ship so he could return to Britain. When he reached Britain, he reported that Australia was uninhabited by any people. The Aboriginal people were classified under the Flora and Fauna Act until 1967. That’s not a typo.
I realize there are a lot of “but’s”, and “wait’s” and “however’s” and that I am a North American, and we treated our First Peoples horrifically as well. That’s not the point. I am telling you about this because there is a lot of palpable tension in Australia about this issue, and because I hear about it as well as other issues of racism and xenophobia frequently. The murders in the mosques in New Zealand have added tinder to these tensions.
The Botanic Gardens are beautiful, with an interesting mix of native and imported specimens. There were some spectacular beds of succulents. The Aboriginal guide showed us an interesting variety of banksia that has seedpods that are used for transporting fire. The inner core of the pod smolders for hours while the outer case of the seedpod remains uncharred. There is a picture of one of those seedpods above, and several succulents below.
We had lunch at the Abbotsford Convent Bakery, which has woodfired ovens build in 1901 for the Good Shepherd sisters whose convent it was, and who started a finishing school for girls because the bishop told them to, even though they were not an “education order”. The food was very good and there was far too much of it.
After lunch and a short walk, we were taken to Hosier Lane in the central business district. Hosier Lane is a side street painted with graffiti from Wellington Parade to Collins Street. It is legal graffiti, encouraged by the city council, which paints the lane dark grey every so often so the graffiti artists can begin anew. This is not the only graffiti street in Melbourne but is the most well-known. Melbourne has a reputation for interesting street art including not just graffiti but sculpture, carvings, and yarn-bombings. We walked back to the hotel from Hosier Lane (via a pub) and for dinner, 8 of us went to the Duke of Wellington, walking down to the CDB again. I walked back to the hotel from the Duke and came out with a total of 17,500 steps for the day.
One of our members is leaving the group on Monday. He misjudged how much activity he could handle. There is a lot of walking every day, 3 to 5 miles, and lots of travel within each country.